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A Girl Who Climbs

A blog of bouldering

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Five Ten

How To Break In Climbing Shoes

Unfortunately my current shoes are on their way out due to lots and lots of wear. As much as I want to go shoe shopping for some new ones, I think it’s time to start wearing some of the boots I’ve got stashed away. I generally size my shoes bouldering tight, which means they are going to need breaking in. Having experianced a few different pairs of climbing shoes now, I’ve found that the breaking in period is always different. My Evolv Shaman LV took around 2 months, whereas my Five Ten Anasazis LV took about 2 weeks. Branding, fabric, sizing and your own foot shape makes each breaking period unique. Of course climbing shoes will wear in as you climb, but sometimes it’s hard to get them on your feet to start the process!

Here are a few tips to help:

– Use plastic bags over your feet to help you slide into your shoes

– Instead of breaking them in on your climbs, try wearing them at home for 20-30mins over a few days

– Wear your climbing boots whilst wearing very thick socks

– Heat your shoes up with a hairdryer until the rubber is warm to touch and then quickly put them on, let them cool down on your feet so the shoes mould to your foot shape

– Try stuffing the shoes as tightly as possible with thick socks before heating them up, and let them cooldown with the socks still inside to help stretch them out

– Wear your  boots at the end of your climb to practice some easy problems

You can mix and match some of the tips above to suit your needs. I hope this helps to make your climbing sessions pain-free!

Leave your own tricks for breaking in boots in the comments 🙂

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Review | Five Ten Anasazi LV Womens

I’ve had my Anasazi LV boots for about four to five months, and they have been the shoes I unconsciously reach for every time I hit the climbing gym. I literally put them on and get on with my climbs, and for this reason I guess I didn’t appreciate how good they were until I actually realised I wasn’t thinking about them. Also If they’re good enough for notable professional climber Shauna Coxey, then I think it’s fair to say they’re a damn good shoe.

 

IMG_4249Fit – Internet research told me that for a bouldering fit I should downsize by half or a whole size. After making a trip into my local Cotswolds and trying them on, I discovered I couldn’t get my foot in the 2.0 (UK), and the 2.5 (UK) were far too tight to the point where I couldn’t even fasten the Velcro straps. I think this is due to my feet being wide for their size, and more mid-volume than low. However the 3 (UK) fits perfect with the right amount of toe pressure and heel tightness, so I ended up matching my street shoe size. Getting them on and off is easy enough and they seemed to break in quickly, generally they’re a particularly comfortable climbing shoe.

 

Specifications – For a long time I was under the impression that if it wasn’t down turned, severelyIMG_4253 asymmetric with a split sole, then it wasn’t a technical shoe. How wrong I was! The asymmetric toe box and slingshot heel give the power, whilst the stiff last offers support as it is one solid piece. The fact that they are comfortable too just adds to their quality, I can wear these shoes for long stretches without having to take them off. The only small nag I have is that I wish there was a little more toe rubber, just to make a toe hook feel more secure and painless.

 

Performance – Slab, roof or arête, I don’t think there is a problem within my ability range that I couldn’t conquer in these boots. For me, that is what a performance shoe should offer. The Stealth C4 rubber is so hard wearing and yet so sticky. They make short work of tiny edges, rounded volumes and smearing in these babies is a dream. I found that because I trust the rubber on the Anasazi LV boots, I’m more likely to flag and use the edges of the shoes, which has helped me progress my climbing skills.

 

IMG_4257Aesthetic –I like how understated they are visually, and how powerful they feel to climb in. They are a lovely teal colour which I think is fairly gender neutral, plus I do like the cool, little cross-hair design on the toes too.

 

Conclusion

The Five Ten Anasazi LV are currently my favourite shoe, they have taken over and become the only climbing boots I reach for, no matter the problem. These shoes offer solid power and confident climbing, all with the added benefit of comfort. When I eventually hit the outdoors, this will be in my bag for sure.

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A Christmas Climbing Wish List

Dear Santa…

I think I’ve been fairly good this year besides missing a few training sessions, so I’ve prepared a wish list of my ideal Christmas climbing gifts.

(see visual aid below)

I know you’re really busy all year and Christmas Eve must be especially tiring for you and the reindeer. To help you reserve some magic I’ve bolted the side of the house for you, I hope Rudolph can belay. The drop down the chimney should be okay, sorry I can’t be there to spot you but I’ll position some crash pads at the bottom. It’s an easy climb back up, mostly bridging, but the top out onto the roof could be a little tricky!

Christmas Wish List

I’ll be sure to leave some carrots for the reindeer, and a Clif bar with a cup of gingerbread coffee for yourself.

Merry Christmas!

– A Girl Who Climbs

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