After watching so many people complete a route, sometimes it’s hard to just go and climb it instinctively without using the same beta. It took me a while to realise that what works for others might not always work for me, and that’s fine so long as I’m not making excuses!


I’m 5ft 2”, so when I try and finish a climb with beta from someone who is 5ft 8”, it’s easy to see why it might not work. Vice versa, if someone tall tries to climb something how I would, they’ll mostly likely end up with their knees in their eyeballs. I’ve made the mistake of getting stuck on beta plenty of times, instead of looking at the obvious factors. I end up determined on doing the move a certain way because everyone else can, despite it not being suited to me or how I can climb. Even if you’re the same height as someone this still doesn’t automatically mean you’ll climb a problem the same. A lock off in a climb is a crux for me, but for someone who is stronger it won’t be an issue, regardless of height similarities. Further more, even if you find someone matched with your build and strength, there is still climbing skill, technique level, and flexibility to be taken into account. Mostly it comes down to the fact that everybody is different, so we don’t all need to climb the same problem the same way, which is wonderful and part of what makes climbing awesome.


I think the key is to not overthink and simply climb however feels natural, regardless of what other climbers are doing. Don’t get trapped in beta! That shoulder height, left heel hook may work wonders for your friend but if you can’t do it that way, find your own and enjoy it.